- Jin Katsuo
- 9月6日
- 読了時間: 1分
太平洋側の大きなウネリを受けて大波が到来中。サーファー向けの波予報サイトも軒並み
”アタマ”の表示。アタマの高さの波ということ。居ても立ってもいられず、とりあえず七里ケ浜に出動。着いてみると、突然のゲリラ豪雨後でドピーカン。視界もクリアーでシャープな陽射し。稲村方面に移動すると、ダブルに近い理想的な？三角波が来てた。
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セットで大波がドッカンドッカン。湘南地域に住んでて良かったと思う瞬間だ。若い人達から禿げ上がったおじさんに至るまで、日頃やってる人たちは余裕でパドって波を超えてく。背筋と肩がショボい自分はもうヘロヘロ。運動不足を痛感。でも、やっぱり海の上は気持ちいい。
